It was 1986 when Julio Iglesias, the Madrid-born footballer turned global superstar, was famously snapped on board his private jet tucking into a bottle of Lafite 1982 and a bucket of KFC. How and when exactly the picture emerged is unclear, but for wine lovers it speaks volumes. It didn’t matter whether the pairing was perfect on paper or not, frankly.
With that picture Iglesias, a dedicated oenophile who once admitted to spending “more than a million dollars a year on wine”, metaphorically tore up the rulebook on food and wine matching, forever blurring the line between fine wine and junk food — and he did it wearing a tank top and aviators.
Nowadays, few would judge the choice to pair a Big Mac with a glass of Burgundy (thanks Vanessa Price, author of Big Macs and Burgundy). But food and wine pairings weren’t always so fluid. The assumption that ‘white goes with fish, red goes with meat’ has been pervasive, and is a good rule of thumb, but has a similar effect as serving wine in a thick-rimmed tumbler — you miss out on the nuance and expression.
Then you have the pairings that are so engrained in wine culture you don’t question them. Oysters and caviar with Champagne (or anything, really), Sauternes with Fois Gras, Pinot Noir with roast duck.
All excellent combos, but there has been a certain reverence around wine that prevented too much experimentation.
There’s plenty to celebrate about the modern wine drinker’s glee at breaking the rules. Food and wine pairing is subjective, and above all should be fun. But, there are some rules that will hold you in good stead when picking a dish to match your Brouilly, or a dessert to sweeten your Sauternes. There’s also plenty of scientific reasoning for why some food and wine pairings work and others don’t.
Whether it’s Sauvignon Blanc and grilled asparagus or Sancerre and a bag of Cheetos, why do some food and wine pairings have you salivating on the spot and others wincing into your glass?
GENERAL WINE PAIRING GUIDELINES
Much of it can be explained by the Salt Fat Acid Heat rule, popularised by Chef Samin Nosrat in her book of the same name (and also a Netflix series). I’d throw two more in there when talking about wine — sweetness and tannin.
These elements all need to be in balance to make a pairing work.
But forget red vs white, meat vs fish. Instead think in terms of full bodied/high alcohol wines vs lighter, less alcoholic wines. The former favours boldness of flavour, the latter delicacy.
Salty foods pair well with High acid whites, Wines lighter in alcohol.
Acidic foods pair well with Higher level of acidity, with low tannins.
Fatty foods pair well with Champagne, Big, rich wines.
Sweet foods pair well with Sweeter dessert wines.
Spicy foods pair well with Low to moderate alcohol levels, lots of fruit.
We want to demystify and celebrate the most gloriously decadent, to the downright audacious food and wine pairings, but also inspire experimentation. So grab a glass and dig in.
NB:
Before breaking the rules, it helps to understand the traditional pairing rules you're breaking.
For other unexpected pairing experiences beyond food, explore pairing wine and television shows.
SALTINESS
Salty foods increase the perception of body and richness in a wine and decrease bitterness and acidity.
Saltiness also softens tannins and brings out fruitiness.
Imagine you’re sitting on a sun soaked terrace with a plate of anchovies, sliced jamon, and a platter of Manchego—you don’t want a high alcohol wine. The best wines will be lighter in alcohol, with enough acid to balance out the tempering effect of the salt.
Think dry sparkling wines or high acid whites — an Albariño from Rías Baixas, perhaps a racy Chablis or a crunchy Sangiovese. Or a deliciously nutty Amontillado Sherry.
In her book, Big Macs and Burgundy, Price cites a preference for Cheetos and Sancerre, “the only wine that stands a chance against the cheesy saltpocalyse”. Or you could go down the salty-sweet route. Think about how good a chunk of Stilton tastes with a glass of Tawny Port.
Top pairing: Salt cod & Santorini Assyrtiko
ACIDITY
The general rule here is that acidic foods + acid wines = good match.
The key is ensuring your wine has an equal or higher level of acidity, with low tannins, compared to the food so there’s an even match. When you pair an acidic dish with a low acid wine, the wine can appear flat and flabby. Foods with high acidity can make a wine seem more full bodied and fruity, and enhance sweetness.
For dishes like vinaigrette-laden salads, lime-drenched ceviche, or pickled kimchi, opt for high acid wines such as a zippy English sparkler or NV Champagne. Perhaps an Italian Gavi or Portuguese Vinho Verde? All have the acidity to stand up to lip-smacking dishes.
Top pairing: Pickled Onion Monster Munch & New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (with some chunks of cheddar shaken up in the packet)
FAT & BUTTER
This is where you’ll tend to find some of the most decadent pairings.
Anything with a satisfying crunch or comforting ooze. We’re talking French fries, fried chicken, cheese-filled croquettes — and anything else deep fried.
Here, you need a wine with enough acidity to cut through the fat and act as a palate cleanser.
Champagne has a wonderful way of making any fried food taste better, not forgetting Cava and Crémant. A medium acid white will also do the trick, such as a Viognier or Grüner Veltliner. A rich, buttery sauce will benefit from a wine that’s equally buttery — a bold white Burgundy or creamy Chardonnay from California perhaps.
Then you have your fatty meats and cheeses — burgers, ribs, steak, duck confit. Sumptuous and meaty. Tannins absorb fatty rich foods, and these foods need high tannin wines. This is when you break out your Bordeaux blends, Napa Cabs, Argentine Malbec, Rioja and Barolo. Big, rich wines match equally with big, rich red meats.
Top pairing: Really good fried Chicken with fries & Brut NV Champagne or even a high acidity Riesling
SWEET
A sweet dish can decrease the sensation of acidity in your wine and make a dry wine taste less fruity.
So the rule of sweet + sweet = good match applies here.
Match a sweet dish with a wine of equal or higher sweetness to avoid a wine’s fruitiness from being dulled. For most dishes, that means delving into dessert wines. Sauternes is a classic choice, or the sensationally sweet PX Sherry. Other examples include sweet wines from Banyuls, Maury, or Rivesaltes, sweet fortified wines made with Grenache, not forgetting German Rieslings of the beerenauslese or trockenauslese persuasion.
Though remember that sweetness is not restricted to the dessert trolley. Savoury foods can also carry sweetness. A creamy, almond-based chicken Pasanda would work with an off-dry Riesling or Argentine Torrontés to balance out the sweetness.
Top pairing: A tub of Ben and Jerry’s Phish Food & Malmsey Madeira
SPICE
Matching wine with spicy dishes is one of the most difficult pairings to master.
People’s perception of heat varies, and so pairing a wine can be quite individual. Unlike other elements, spice can affect the texture of a wine as well as its flavour.
Generally, spice increases the perception of bitterness in a wine, as well as the alcohol burn. It will also decrease the richness and sweetness of a wine, and dull any fruit character. Pick a wine with a low to moderate alcohol level and a lot of fruit. Avoid high tannic, oaky reds and pick something with a touch of sweetness.
A Friday night curry can go wonderfully with an off-dry Riesling or rosé, which will soften the heat. Or a fruity Australian Shiraz or Spanish Garnacha, so long as it’s lighter in alcohol. If you’re feeling adventurous take it up a notch and go full on sweet. You might find plenty to love about a delicately spiced Thai Green curry and glass of Sauternes.
Top pairing: Late night spiced chicken shish kebab & Stellenbosch Chardonnay
DEMYSTIFIED?
Ready to challenge your preconceptions? Discover unique pairing possibilities with our thoughtfully selected subscription wines, each offering tasting notes with both traditional and unexpected pairing suggestions.
Think of it as having a musically adventurous mate who introduces you to those artists who defy categorisation but somehow just work.