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Framed photographs on the wall at Sager + Wilde, including a smiling young man and a surreal black-and-white portrait of Jim Clendenen, as featured in the Ourglass Tapes video series.

Ourglass Tapes | Michael Sager on Noma & Natural Wine

In this episode, Michael Sager reflects on the influence of Noma and the value of classical wine training in shaping natural wine culture.
Benedict Johnson

Written by Benedict Johnson

May 30, 2025

Michael Sager on Noma and Natural Wine

Michael Sager doesn’t see a contradiction between natural wine and formal training. In fact, he sees a connection.

“The best natural wine people I know – the ones I really respect – all have a classic background,” he says. That includes the original wine buyer for Noma, a restaurant that reshaped global taste. “It’s wild to think how one man, one restaurant, influenced a whole global drinking culture.”


Noma became a kind of incubator for natural wine. But its roots were rigorous. “It all came from a classically trained palate,” Michael notes. “And maybe that’s what lets you taste differently. Not better. Just with perspective.”

It’s not reverence for the old world. It’s a reminder that good taste starts somewhere – and stays with you.

THIRSTY FOR MORE?

Watch the next in our Michael Sager series, where he talks about running bars as acts of service, not ego.

TL;DR

Michael Sager explains how Noma shaped natural wine culture and why classical training gives perspective.

Art Direction by David Tokley

Filming by Max Sizeland

Location: Sager + Wilde, Hackney Road London