Ultreia Saint Jacques '18

Mencía from Bierzo rarely feels this precise, yet so unforced. Raúl Pérez’s Ultreia Saint Jacques is a masterclass in how to coax both energy and depth from old vines without overworking the fruit. Sourced from vineyards planted between 1900 and 1940 around Valtuille de Abajo, this is technically his “entry-level” bottling, though it behaves like anything but. The blend includes small amounts of Bastardo (Trousseau), Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet), and Palomino, fermented mostly as whole clusters in large oak vats. Macerations stretch up to two months, followed by ageing in neutral barrels and concrete. No fining, no filtration. The result is a low-intervention red wine with a distinctly Atlantic soul. It’s lifted, savoury, and finely tuned, with a structure that’s both approachable and quietly age-worthy. Pérez’s touch here is all about restraint and clarity, allowing the Bierzo terroir to speak in its native dialect. Expect sour cherry, violet, and black tea, with a flicker of graphite and tomato leaf. Pairs well with grilled lamb chops, lentil stew, or a wedge of Manchego. This Bierzo Mencía shows sour cherry and graphite with a lifted, savoury finish, ideal with lentil stew or Manchego.