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Turreted Bordeaux château glimpsed through oak leaves on a summer afternoon

Bordeaux Wine Producers

From biodynamic first growths to Right Bank legends. 20 estates redefining Bordeaux today.
Benedict Johnson

Written by Benedict Johnson

Aug 15, 2023

BORDEAUX WINE PRODUCERS

From biodynamic first growths to Right Bank legends. 20 estates redefining Bordeaux today.

The Bordeaux wine lovers return to is not about power or prestige, but about sites that reward time, restraint and attention. Whether you're exploring France's wine regions for the first time or revisiting Bordeaux with fresh eyes, these estates demonstrate that when appellation takes a back seat, terroir finally speaks.

RIGHT BANK

Merlot-led, limestone and clay, texture before tannin.

SAINT-ÉMILION

Château Belair-Monange

Saint-Émilion | Saint-Émilion Grand Cru | Premier Grand Cru Classé B | Certified Organic

Château Belair-Monange occupies the highest point of Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau, a site cultivated since Roman times and ranked by Cocks & Féret in 1850 as the leading wine of the appellation. The Moueix family acquired the estate in 2008, renaming it to honour Jean-Pierre Moueix's mother, Anne-Adèle Monange, the first Moueix woman to settle in Saint-Émilion.

The 23.5-hectare vineyard divides between asteriated limestone on the plateau and dense blue clay on the south-facing slopes. Plantings run 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, with the merger of neighbouring Château Magdelaine in 2012 bringing additional complexity. Organic certification reflects a philosophy of minimal intervention: indigenous fermentations, élevage split between barrels and concrete, and 50% new oak for 16-18 months.

The wines

The grand vin shows Saint-Émilion at its most classical: tension, lift and a chalky, architectural finish rather than overt density. Annonce de Bélair-Monange, the second wine introduced in 2014, combines minerality and concentration with earlier accessibility. Haut Roc Blanquant, the estate's third wine, offers a vibrant, fruit-driven expression for drinking within a few years.

Château Canon

Saint-Émilion | Saint-Émilion Grand Cru | Premier Grand Cru Classé B

Château Canon sits on prime limestone slopes in view of Saint-Émilion village, its history stretching to 1760 when privateer Jacques Kanon purchased the domain. Since 1996, the Wertheimer family (owners of Chanel) have transformed the estate through meticulous vineyard restructuring and cellar modernisation, making Canon what critics now call a "reawakened sleeping giant."

The 34-hectare vineyard plants 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc on clay-limestone soils, with vines averaging 30 years and some blocks dating to the 1940s. Winemaker Nicolas Audebert (formerly of Cheval des Andes) oversees parcel-by-parcel vinification in the gravity-flow cellar, with 18 months ageing in 70% new French oak. The estate has earned consistent 97+ scores since 2014, with the 2015 and 2016 both achieving 100 points.

The wines

Canon delivers clarity-driven Saint-Émilion where limestone, not extraction, defines expression. Merlot provides texture, Cabernet Franc the aromatic architecture. Croix Canon, produced from dedicated plots around the restored 12th-century Chapelle de Mazerat, offers an earlier-drinking lens on the estate's style, often with higher Cabernet Franc in the blend.

Domaine de Galouchey

Saint-Émilion | Saint-Émilion Grand Cru | Certified Biodynamic

Domaine de Galouchey represents a radically different Saint-Émilion approach: tiny-scale, biodynamic and minimal intervention in one of Bordeaux's most orthodox appellations. This is natural wine territory within the walls of tradition.

Indigenous fermentations, no new oak and very low sulphur yield wines of striking individuality. It serves as a reminder that Merlot and Cabernet Franc can express delicacy and tension when handled without cosmetic winemaking, offering an alternative perspective on what Saint-Émilion can be.

POMEROL

Petrus

Pomerol | Pomerol

Petrus needs little introduction. This 11.5-hectare estate on Pomerol's plateau produces one of the world's most coveted wines from a geological anomaly: a "buttonhole" of 40-million-year-old blue clay (smectite) found nowhere else in Bordeaux. The dense, moisture-retentive soil creates ideal stress conditions for Merlot, which has comprised 100% of plantings since 2010.

The Moueix family connection began in the 1940s when Jean-Pierre Moueix partnered with the visionary Madame Loubat; full ownership followed in 1969. Today, fourth-generation winemaker Olivier Berrouet continues his father Jean-Claude's 44-vintage legacy. Winemaking remains traditional: hand-harvesting over 5-6 days, fermentation in concrete, ageing in 50% new oak for 18 months. Green harvesting may eliminate up to 50% of the crop, resulting in yields among the lowest in Bordeaux.

The wines

Petrus produces only one wine: approximately 2,500 cases annually of profound concentration, silky texture and extraordinary ageing potential. The style combines depth and sensuality with vintage-specific character rather than manufactured consistency. Each release expresses this singular terroir rather than conforming to a house formula.

Château Lafleur

Pomerol | Pomerol

Château Lafleur stands at the intellectual end of Pomerol. This 4.5-hectare estate, just 200 metres from Petrus, produces wines where Cabernet Franc plays a defining role unusual for the appellation: plantings run roughly 50/50 between Merlot and what the Guinaudeau family call "Bouchet" (the traditional local name for Cabernet Franc).

Founded in 1872 by Henri Greloud, the estate remained in family hands through various branches until Jacques and Sylvie Guinaudeau took full control in 2002. Their approach echoes Burgundy more than Bordeaux: the 4.5-hectare vineyard divides into 24 parcels across four distinct soil types (gravel, sandy gravel, clay, and sand), each vinified separately. Vine density reaches 8,000 per hectare; soils are raked rather than turned. Ageing uses only 50% new oak to preserve rather than impose.

In 2025, the Guinaudeaus announced Lafleur would leave the Pomerol appellation entirely, producing all wines under Vin de France designation to gain flexibility in responding to climate change. The move signals confidence that the Lafleur name transcends any appellation's marketing value.

The wines

The grand vin is dense, firm and uncompromising, demanding time and attention. Dark fruit, truffle, graphite and mineral freshness emerge with age. Les Pensées de Lafleur (renamed from Pensées de Lafleur in 2018) comes from dedicated parcels rather than declassified lots, representing the family's view of "true Pomerol" through its more typical soils and blend. Production: approximately 1,000 cases of the grand vin, 750 cases of Les Pensées.

LEFT BANK

Cabernet Sauvignon, gravel, structure and ageing.

MARGAUX

Château Palmer

Margaux | Margaux | Third Growth | Certified Biodynamic

Château Palmer has emerged as one of Bordeaux's most progressive estates, a Third Growth consistently performing at First Growth level. Under director Thomas Duroux (formerly of Ornellaia), the estate completed full biodynamic conversion between 2008 and 2014, gaining certification in 2017 as one of the highest-profile biodynamic vineyards in Bordeaux.

The 66-hectare vineyard plants equal parts Merlot (47%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (47%), with 6% Petit Verdot, on gravel, sand and clay overlooking the Gironde. This unusually high Merlot percentage for the Médoc contributes to Palmer's signature velvety texture. Biodynamic practices include grazing sheep and cattle, nettle and horsetail preparations, and even soundwave machines emitting tones to aid vine development. Infrared cameras determine optimal harvest timing; 54 temperature-controlled vats enable parcel-by-parcel vinification.

The wines

Palmer combines Margaux's aromatic finesse with a unique textural quality, gaining clarity rather than rusticity from biodynamics. The estate has achieved three 100-point vintages since 2015. Alter Ego de Palmer, introduced in 1998, comes from dedicated plots rather than functioning as a traditional second wine. With less new oak influence and a distinct freshness, it has developed a cult following in its own right. Production: approximately 12,000 cases of Palmer, 8,000 cases of Alter Ego.

Château Brane-Cantenac

Margaux | Margaux | Second Growth

Château Brane-Cantenac is a quiet Margaux benchmark. The 75-hectare estate on deep gravel soils prioritises perfume, fine tannins and balance over scale through restrained extraction and careful élevage.

The wines charm over time rather than dominate tastings, making Brane-Cantenac a favourite among Burgundy-leaning Bordeaux drinkers who value subtlety over statement. Recent vintages show increasing precision while maintaining the estate's hallmark elegance.

Château Rauzan-Ségla

Margaux | Margaux | Second Growth

Rauzan-Ségla's renaissance began with Chanel's acquisition in 1994 (two years before they bought Canon in Saint-Émilion). Vineyard focus and careful élevage have returned the estate to a style rooted in elegance rather than power, with the same exacting standards the Wertheimer family bring to their fashion house.

The 66-hectare vineyard plants predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc on classic Margaux gravel. Floral, layered and supple, modern Rauzan-Ségla expresses the appellation with confidence and composure, justifying its Second Growth status with wines that reward patience.

PAUILLAC

Château Pontet-Canet

Pauillac | Pauillac | Fifth Growth | Certified Biodynamic

Château Pontet-Canet represents biodynamics at Bordeaux's highest level. Under Alfred Tesseron's direction since 1994, this 81-hectare estate became the first classified growth in the Médoc to achieve both organic (Ecocert) and biodynamic (Biodyvin, Demeter) certification, completing full conversion by 2010.

The vineyard occupies prime Pauillac terroir on the gravel plateau running from Lafite through Mouton Rothschild, with core blocks planted in the 1940s and average vine age around 50 years. Plantings run 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Ten horses now work approximately half the vineyard, sleeping in stables made from old wine barrels. Geothermal energy powers the winery. Since 2019, all sorting and destemming occurs entirely by hand in near-silence.

"I am not a winemaker," Tesseron has said. "We are growers. Our success is due to our efforts in the vineyards, not the winemaking."

The wines

The wines have gained energy, precision and depth since the biodynamic conversion, proving that sustainable viticulture can elevate even Pauillac's most structured terroirs. Yields rarely exceed 35 hectoliters per hectare. While the mildew-prone 2018 vintage saw devastating losses (10 hl/ha), recent years demonstrate the rewards of commitment. Ageing uses approximately 60% new oak. Though officially a Fifth Growth, Pontet-Canet now commands prices and critical scores competing with the First Growths.

Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste

Pauillac | Pauillac | Fifth Growth

Grand-Puy-Lacoste is a classicist's Pauillac. The 58-hectare vineyard on deep gravel soils produces wines of structure and restraint rather than polish, through careful extraction and measured oak.

Cassis, cedar and graphite dominate the aromatic profile, with firm tannins that soften slowly over decades. This is Pauillac built to age rather than impress early, rewarding patience with complexity that emerges only with time. The estate has remained in the Borie family since 1978, maintaining consistent quality across vintages.

Château Batailley

Pauillac | Pauillac | Fifth Growth

Château Batailley remains resolutely traditional and quietly reliable. The 60-hectare estate produces wines defined by long ageing curves and savoury Cabernet Sauvignon character rather than modern extraction or heavy oak.

Often underestimated, mature bottles deliver balance and depth without excess. Batailley rewards patience rather than fashion, offering serious Pauillac at prices that reflect value rather than speculation. The Castéja family has owned the estate since 1942.

SAINT-ESTÈPHE

Château Calon-Ségur

Saint-Estèphe | Saint-Estèphe | Third Growth

Calon-Ségur balances Saint-Estèphe authority with increasing finesse. The estate's distinctive heart-shaped label reflects the affection of 18th-century owner Marquis de Ségur, who reportedly declared, "I make wine at Lafite and Latour, but my heart is at Calon."

Modern vineyard work under the Suravenir insurance group's ownership since 2012 has softened the edges without losing depth or structure. The 55-hectare vineyard plants primarily Cabernet Sauvignon on clay and gravel. Dark fruit, saline grip and graphite notes define wines that mature beautifully and value poise over brute power.

Château Meyney

Saint-Estèphe | Saint-Estèphe | Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel

Château Meyney is one of Bordeaux's great value estates. The 51-hectare vineyard on clay and gravel overlooking the Gironde produces serious, age-worthy wines at accessible prices.

The style is dark, structured and unapologetic, lacking polish but delivering authenticity and longevity. For drinkers seeking Saint-Estèphe character without classified growth prices, Meyney offers compelling value and consistent quality across vintages.

PESSAC-LÉOGNAN

Château Haut-Bailly

Pessac-Léognan | Pessac-Léognan | Cru Classé de Graves

Château Haut-Bailly is among Bordeaux's most cerebral estates. The property's foundations date to the 1530s, with the Le Bailly family lending their name in the 1600s. Under the "king of winegrowers" Alcide Bellot des Minières in the late 19th century, Haut-Bailly sold at prices matching First Growths.

American banker Robert Wilmers purchased the estate in 1998, retaining Véronique Sanders (fourth generation of her family at the property) as managing director. Their "spare no expense" approach funded geological surveys, cellar modernisation in 2000, and a striking new eco-certified winery completed in 2020. The 2022 vintage incorporated vines from neighbouring Château Le Pape, expanding the vineyard to 39 planted hectares.

The single-bloc vineyard includes a precious 9-acre parcel of vines over 120 years old. Plantings run 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, with average vine age of 38 years. Plot-by-plot vinification in 30 concrete vats, 16-18 months in French oak from six cooperages. Unusually for Pessac-Léognan, no white wine is produced.

The wines

Subtle power, mineral tension and refined tannins define wines that evolve slowly and gracefully. The 2009 vintage, described by Robert Parker as "the greatest Haut-Bailly ever made," has been followed by consistently outstanding releases. Jean-Claude Berrouet (the retired Pétrus winemaker) named Haut-Bailly among his favourite Bordeaux wines for its delicacy and finesse. Haut-Bailly II (formerly La Parde de Haut-Bailly) offers a softer structure for earlier drinking.

Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion

Pessac-Léognan | Pessac-Léognan

Les Carmes Haut-Brion represents Bordeaux thinking forward without abandoning tradition. This small estate within Bordeaux city limits (near its famous neighbour Haut-Brion) has undergone significant renovation under the Pichet family's ownership since 2010.

The striking Philippe Starck-designed cellar, completed in 2016, houses vinification in concrete eggs and barrel ageing. The vineyard's unusual grape blend (approximately 40% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon) creates wines of aromatic lift, freshness and textural detail.

The wines

Les Carmes attracts drinkers who appreciate innovation deployed in service of expression rather than spectacle. The high Cabernet Franc percentage distinguishes it from most Pessac-Léognan estates, contributing perfume and freshness to a style that feels more Right Bank than Left.

HAUT-MÉDOC

Château Sociando-Mallet

Haut-Médoc | Haut-Médoc

Sociando-Mallet is Bordeaux's great outsider. Excluded from the 1855 classification (and from subsequent efforts to update it), the estate built its reputation on consistency and conviction alone under the late Jean Gautreau's 50-year stewardship.

The 83-hectare vineyard on gravel and clay in Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne, at the northern tip of the Haut-Médoc, plants predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Dark, structured and demanding, the wines reward long ageing and appeal to traditionalists who value integrity over status. Gautreau's daughter Sylvie now continues the uncompromising approach.

CÔTES & SATELLITES

Roc de Cambes

Côtes de Bourg | Côtes de Bourg

Roc de Cambes produces richly textured wines that challenge assumptions about appellation hierarchy. François Mitjavile (of Tertre Roteboeuf fame) purchased this 10-hectare property in 1988, applying the same meticulous approach he developed in Saint-Émilion.

From steep clay-limestone slopes overlooking the Gironde, the wines combine depth with balance, primarily from Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Late harvesting, natural yeasts and extended maceration create concentration without extraction. Roc de Cambes suits drinkers who enjoy generosity without grand cru theatre, proving that great wine can emerge from unexpected places.

Château Le Puy

Francs | Côtes de Bordeaux | Certified Biodynamic

Château Le Puy has become a symbol of biodynamic Bordeaux and natural winemaking. The Amoreau family has farmed this 50-hectare estate without chemicals since 1610, four centuries of sustainable viticulture that predates the term itself.

No new oak, minimal intervention and humility define wines labelled simply as Côtes de Bordeaux. The primary grape is Merlot, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, grown on clay-limestone soils. Fermentation uses indigenous yeasts; ageing occurs in old barrels and concrete.

The wines

Cuvée Emilien, the estate's flagship, offers pure fruit expression and surprising ageing potential. Cuvée Barthélemy, from the oldest vines, demonstrates that Bordeaux's most compelling expressions need not come from famous appellations. Le Puy's appearance in Japanese manga "Les Gouttes de Dieu" (Drops of God) brought international attention, but the family's philosophy remains unchanged: wines that reflect place rather than technique.

EXPLORE MORE

Other Regions

Burgundy Producers | Loire Producers | Jura & Savoie Producers | Rhône & Southern France | Alsace Producers

Further Reading

French Wine Regions Guide

Develop Your Palate

How Taste Works | How to Develop Your Palate | Taste Decoded Series

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